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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.